Jacket, 2012

The jumps and cotton petticoat were followed by a basic woollen jacket. I needed something warm to wear with them, and as with the original outfit, the idea for this addition was borrowed from my friend (and Guru) Riikka's closet. She happened to be making a jacket based on a classic Finnish costume history book, and when I tried it on it fit me with only slight alterations. Thus I had a pattern almost ready to use, and what's more it was a brilliantly simple one: Just one pattern piece (not counting the optional front gore) with kimono sleeves and just side- and back seams. Despite the simplicity of the cut the result is very craceful, especially on a soft material.

Added to the pattern I also already had the material, as I had just enough left of the mauve wool piece I had already used for an 14th century hood. I had to cut the back skirts and part of the sleeves separate, but the joining seam on back looks nice and on the sleeve it's covered by the turned cuff.  I made the sleeves long and a bit loose so I could wear other layers than just the shirt underneath if needed.

This kind of jacket is often lined with another pretty material and used both sides up to give variance to once's wardrobe, but I didn't have anything suitable at the moment so I did the boring thing and used off white linen I already had. One of my goals with this project was, indeed, to move some fabrics from my basement storage to my period closet.

I bag lined the wool and linen lining. The linen had random wide stripes wowen with a shinier weft now and there, and only when I was cutting I suddenly realized I could use it in the sleeve extension piece which would make the turned cuff to give the expression of a finer lining.

I finished the edges with hand stitching to give a period look and keep them in shape, and added satin ribbons for the front fastening. The polyester ribbons look a bit too shiny, but they will do.

As I have already mentioned with some other project, when I began costuming I wanted to do only the fancy stuff. Later I realised not only that I need more simple garments for some re-enacting events but also that they can be very pretty too.  This particular project begun from the need to get a warm and practical garment fast, and the result is not only successful as such, but also aesthetically, which is more usually my main goal.

In spite of being designed for warmth the jacket nevertheless got its photoshoot on July along with the jumps and the skirt. But knowing Finnish summer, and that summer in particular it was not too much at all.

More about the frilly cap on 18th century headwear.

I would like to thank:

Riikka for pattern and consultation

Seitseminen National Park / Kovero Heritage farm for an idyllic shooting location

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